MONARCH USN Pre WW-2 M-422 MODEL LEATHER FLIGHT JACKET BUILD

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MONARCH USN Pre WW-2 M-422 MODEL LEATHER FLIGHT JACKET BUILD:
$1950.00

For a proposed build you are now admiring some of my custom made pre WW-2 type Monarch M-422 jackets. Recreated by me by utilizing original Monarch M-422 jackets from within my personal collection.

The M-422 series is the first of the intermediate weight issue leather flight jacket worn by USN aviators. The contract for this M-422 model jacket was let in March of 1940 (see dated spec sheet). Thereafter manufactured and issued throughout 1941 and just prior to the USA entering WW-2.

This particular jacket represents the quintessential pinnacle of the USN type flight jackets made and worn during WW-2. Built with more reinforcing stich work than any other to date. Priced here using a seal or chocolate brown colored goat hide. In sizes 36 through 48 to suit. Let me tell you about this jacket!

Monarch manufactured a handful of different USN intermediate model leather flight jackets during WW-2. This proposed M-422 build replicates the earliest of the three WW-2 era Monarch jacket models. Most notably each of the designs are unique. Furthermore each of the models which include the M-422, M-422A, AN & G-1 model jackets are in fact unique to one another. Although this M-422 may visually resemble all later Monarch models, there are inherent differences between each.

This Monarch's M-422 has the widest collar from among their three individual WW-2 models. The original jackets I have handled had collar widths varied between 2 3" and 3 1/2". Exactly what you can expect with your build.

To derive my Monarch M-422 design I utilized 3 original Monarch M-422's (size 36, 40, 46 & 48) from my personal collection) to do a comparison study.The size 40 Monarch M-422 is seen within the descriptive images. Along with the my 1943 model AN-J-3A size 46 Monarch jacket (once restored) I found it to be a hybrid. In fact built using their earlier M-422 pattern. In addition to a size 48 M-422A jacket I recently acquired. All of which allowed me to most accurately resurrect the M-422 pattern perfectly in every imaginable size.

Furthermore, all the USN Monarch jackets within my collection were taken down to their individual panel pieces. While apart I patterned them by going so far as reusing their original stitch holes throughout. Now robust enough to be worn on the occasion.

Subsequently, I've made these same Monarch jackets my concentration for reproducing. A premier WW-2 military jacket maker I greatly admire for it's style, comfort and look. Above all other makers this particular jacket is my most favorite vintage jacket maker for both civilian & mil spec jackets. Not to mention since I have duplicated Monarch's M-422, AN and G-1 model jackets I refer to them as my trifecta. Let me tell you all about what you can expect with one of my custom builds!

The Monarch USN type jacket design is arguably the most form fitting of all the WW-2 model USN leather flight jackets. This make jacket is best suited for those with an athletic build yet extremely comfortable if correctly sized to the individual.

To begin I use either chrome or vegetable tanned goat hides for your build. The hides that I have readily available are 1.00 to 1.2 mm thick. Much like these jackets were originally made. All the hides I use are of a superior quality. Thus only get better looking with time and ultimately developing patina.

If interested I also do a civilian version of the AN-J-3 (leather collar) using both the same AN-J-3A or M-422 designs in either horse or goat hide. Please see my AN-J-3A type here ITEM # 113834001395 or the M-422 type here ITEM # 115095896612. Then the W&G type of AN-J-3 as seen here Item # 403731020374

The M-422 jackets seen in the descriptive images was done using super grainy hide seal brown goat hides. More smooth seal brown goat hides are also available. Another option and more expensive goat hide can be made using an over dyed russet hide. The over dyed russet is a most interesting technique. More often that not used by Monarch on some of their early M-422 and AN model jackets. Given wear, the dyed russet will eventually loose portions of it's top coat. Thereafter revealing russet undertones to the high wear areas. One of those original examples seen in the last descriptive images (seen to the left) was done using that same technique.

The rayon lining material to be used for your build was sourced out of the UK. The only M-422 that utilized several different colors for their lining. Among them was a red, burgundy & brown. All in spite of brown being the specified lining color by the USN for this particular contract. This same proposed material to be used is the absolute thickest and correctly colored rayon I have ever found.

Your M-422 model jacket will come with seal brown wool knits. The Monarch M-422 waist knits originally came with a unique horizontal (5/8" to 3/4" ribbing) and vertical (rib/rack) ratio, weave and yarn weight. Please note that I have duplicated the knit sets originally used by Monarch for their M-422 jackets for this particular build. An example is seen within the descriptive images along with a typical hide I use for this same build.

Your proposed M-422 model jacket is priced to come with correct buttons. The zip, a Japanese made reproduction (correct M-39 model) Talon chain and correct original blackened Talon hardware.

Notably, to aid me in my reproduction work I have a complete copy on hand for the USN's 1940 M-422 spec sheet. Compliments of the National Archives in Washington D.C. Just as originally provided by the USN to those initial three M-422 (Willis and Geiger, Monarch and Switlik) jackets makers.

All my M-422 model builds will be stitched using the same type silk thread originally used. As per the USN specification all M-422 model jackets to include the Monarch were originally stitched using a brown colored 100% silk thread. Something that I discovered years ago through my restorations and first to implement with my reproduction jackets. Furthermore to prove out that point please note I've include that particular page within the descriptive images which specifies silk to be used for this M-422 jacket's stitch work. A specification followed with all M-422 and early or pre War issued M-422A jackets.

The mouton material I utilize for my collars come from carefully choosen vintage garments. Thereby duplicating the collars seen on those original jackets.

Recently retired my vintage Reece 101 keyhole buttonhole machine and opted for a late model machine. Now used to recreate my USN type jackets pocket flaps and throat latched. I've included a few examples of that machine's highly detailed keyhole buttonhole work and a video of my new machine stitching a USN type Monarch pocket flap.

Much like all of the USN jackets that I reproduce I utilize the correct USN stencil. To facilitate I had this particular USN stencil font CAD duplicated. Likewise the USN font for this maker and not unlike all the USN flight jacket makers is unique to this particular make and model.

There is a waiting period for this build. If you are interested and want your jacket before the coming season I suggest you start this process now rather than waiting until the last minute as these builds take time.

If interested please contact me David Sheeley at your earliest convenience to discuss your build.

Please look at my other jacket options available.